What a GREAT place!!
We have a great apartment, large and comfortable. Within a 2 block radius we have a Metro station, a market, a boulangerie (bakery), le Place de Voges and numerous cafes.
Last night after we got in we went to the local market and bought some basic groceries. We went for a FANTASTIC dinner at an outdoor cafe in the Place de Voges. BAV had the steak and Meg had the salmon. With great Bordeau wine.
This morning we got up and had our old folks North American breakfast in the apartment (Bran Flakes, fruit aka fibre, fiber, fiber!) We then had stand-up coffee at the local cafe on the way to the Metro. Took the Metro (a great experience for BAV) to Les Invalides (the military museum). Saw Napoleon's tomb there and the inumerable carved reliefs of Napoleon as Caeser saving the world. Geez, give the French 1 war hero and they do him to death!! Magnificent museum. We toured Napoleon's Tomb, and the Modern period (Louis XIV to Napoleon III). Saw Napoleon's uniforms, camp bed, etc. They were small guys in those days.
We then walked up to the Champs de Mars via the Ecole Militaire. Took pictures and had our pictures taken with le Tour Eiffel in the background. We stopped for another fantastic meal, lunch at a local cafe. Our plan is to eat the big lunch with the French (fine quisine - it's not just a myth) and then Metro'ed home. We hung around in the afternoon to finish the laundry (2 weeks in Scotland kind of used it all up). We also shopped for picnic dinner in the apt (cheese, fresh baguette at the local boulangerie, soup, cold meat and the ubiquitous vin ordinaire). BAV left his Metro pass and Museum pass in a shirt and they were totally destroyed in the laundry.
So we had (twist our rubber arms) to take the Metro (2 lines this time) to Champs Elysess to the Tourist Office (it's no longer there as indicated by the guide book) to try and get another museum pass for BAV. No luck but we did have a nice stroll on the Champs Elysee and BAV still thinks the Metro is a positive experience. There was a guy playing classical violin on the Metro. Not in the station. On the train. Standing up. While it was moving. In rush hour crowd. Bravo, Monseiur!! Came home to a great "picnic" dinner of cheese, bread, soup and vin ordinaire at the apt. Meg also had "une religieuse" - a multi-layere dcream puff with coffee cream/hazlenut filling which was something she had enjoyed here 30 years ago.
We made contact with Meg's cousin Rebecca. We will meet up with her tomorrow at Sainte Chapelle for a tour, and hopefully lunch on the Ilse de Cite.
BAV is in seventh heaven. He is fond of saying "Je suis avec elle" (I am with her). BAV is remembering his high school French and is really enjoying reading the signs and speaking with Parisians. Their mythical rudeness is overrated.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Paris
We arrived late yesterday afternoon from Glasgow. Good flight, great apartment, except for the creaky floors!! Told to NOT RUN the washer or dryer after 10 pm and that the wash cycle took over an hour. So we thought, well, if we start it at 8:45, for sure it will be done at 10. Nope, 10:30. The last half hour I was practically on my knees before the machine, praying it to be quiet!
But the wash is done. Now when to dry it?? Problem is, between 9am and 10 pm, we want to be out and about! Oh well, we'll figure out a way.
In the evening we went to explore the neighbourhood. Bought some water and milk and yogurt and cereal. Wandered down to Place des Vosges and had a great dinner at a restaurant there. Bought a couple of oranges on the way back and then crashed (after the laundry drama). Emailed cousin Rebecca -- hoping to get together today. We are doing Les Invalides this morning -- she is doing the Louvre.
Many of the local cafe/restos do not serve dinner until 8 pm, which is a bit disappointing - we are early risers and consequently like a dinner around 6 or 7. Maybe we'll have a light "souper" at home in the evenings and save our Paris dining experiences for mid-day.
A la prochaine,
Meg
But the wash is done. Now when to dry it?? Problem is, between 9am and 10 pm, we want to be out and about! Oh well, we'll figure out a way.
In the evening we went to explore the neighbourhood. Bought some water and milk and yogurt and cereal. Wandered down to Place des Vosges and had a great dinner at a restaurant there. Bought a couple of oranges on the way back and then crashed (after the laundry drama). Emailed cousin Rebecca -- hoping to get together today. We are doing Les Invalides this morning -- she is doing the Louvre.
Many of the local cafe/restos do not serve dinner until 8 pm, which is a bit disappointing - we are early risers and consequently like a dinner around 6 or 7. Maybe we'll have a light "souper" at home in the evenings and save our Paris dining experiences for mid-day.
A la prochaine,
Meg
Monday, September 28, 2009
Glasgow 28 Sept
Our one full day in Glasgow.
We Walked up to the St.Mungo Cathedral (magnificent, unbelievable) and the accompanying St. Mungo Museum of Religion and Art. Saw the Necropolis where all the important Glawegians are buried. We then got on a tour bus that you could get on and off and comes along every half hour (a great way to see things when you only have a day). Saw all the majhor sites.
Took a cab to 3 addresses in North Glasgow where Meg's grandmother used to live. Residences no longer exist there. Shopped a little and went for a great Italian dinner. The Scots maitre d' noted that we were Canadians and that Canadians have something in common with the Scots - poor southern neighbours.
All packed for the flight to Paris tomorrow.
We Walked up to the St.Mungo Cathedral (magnificent, unbelievable) and the accompanying St. Mungo Museum of Religion and Art. Saw the Necropolis where all the important Glawegians are buried. We then got on a tour bus that you could get on and off and comes along every half hour (a great way to see things when you only have a day). Saw all the majhor sites.
Took a cab to 3 addresses in North Glasgow where Meg's grandmother used to live. Residences no longer exist there. Shopped a little and went for a great Italian dinner. The Scots maitre d' noted that we were Canadians and that Canadians have something in common with the Scots - poor southern neighbours.
All packed for the flight to Paris tomorrow.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Leaving Skye for Glasgow (reprise)
Here is an attempt to post the photo of the Glenfinnan Viaduct, FYI, This is the best we could do in the weather conditions.
Leaving Skye for Glasgow 27 September
Today we checked out of the Eilean Iarmain hotel on Skye this morning after an early continental breakfast and drove the 10 miles to Armadale for the ferry to Mallaig on the mainland. Very windy (as usual on Skye) with very low clouds and rainy. We had 10 minutes between the arrival of the ferry at Mallaig and the train's departure to Glasgow. We (mostlyBrian) were kind of concerned about that tight connection. But all the locals were totally sanquine about it. For good reason. It was about a 3 - 5 minute walk from the ferry to the train.
The West Highland Railway is said to be one of the 3 most scenic train rides in the world. But with the low cloud and rain we didn't see a lot of it. We DID cross the Glenfinnan Viaduct (the stone train viaduct in the Harry Potter movies) and we got a (somewhat poor) shot of it. The train stopped there, apparently due to the high volume of requests for photos. It was a 5 and a half hour train ride after the half hour ferry crossing - a long and mind-fuzzing travel day. We had the Skye hotel make us some sandwiches which was a good thing. About 45 minutes before we arrived in Glasgow they brought a food cart (using the term "food" loosely) around. We would have starved otherwise.
Arrived in Glasgow where we are staying next to the train station and on George Square in the central core of downtown. It is a municipal holiday tomorrow so there are lots of people on the streets. Not really a good walking place. It is the downtown of a really big city without the charm of the Royal Mile as in Edinburgh. We had beer and pizza for supper and will take it easy this evening. Tomorrow we will walk around and tour a bit before catching the plane on Tuesday for Paris.
The West Highland Railway is said to be one of the 3 most scenic train rides in the world. But with the low cloud and rain we didn't see a lot of it. We DID cross the Glenfinnan Viaduct (the stone train viaduct in the Harry Potter movies) and we got a (somewhat poor) shot of it. The train stopped there, apparently due to the high volume of requests for photos. It was a 5 and a half hour train ride after the half hour ferry crossing - a long and mind-fuzzing travel day. We had the Skye hotel make us some sandwiches which was a good thing. About 45 minutes before we arrived in Glasgow they brought a food cart (using the term "food" loosely) around. We would have starved otherwise.
Arrived in Glasgow where we are staying next to the train station and on George Square in the central core of downtown. It is a municipal holiday tomorrow so there are lots of people on the streets. Not really a good walking place. It is the downtown of a really big city without the charm of the Royal Mile as in Edinburgh. We had beer and pizza for supper and will take it easy this evening. Tomorrow we will walk around and tour a bit before catching the plane on Tuesday for Paris.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Saturday in Skye
We don't have good internet access at the Eilean Iarmain hotel, so we feel a bit out of touch. Yesterday we had a remarkable day!
Morning down to Armadale CAstle and the whole MacDonald clan story and gift shop -- amazing gardens too! Then north -- Brian driving and the gorgeous scenery going by -- rocky foothills, bays and inlets and lochs, waterfalls, sheep, highland cattle. Every turn a breathtaking vista.
We went on the search for 2 medieval ruined chapels -- very hard to find, but finally discovered them hidden away on an island in the Snivort river (stay at the Skeabost Country House hotel, fish trout and salmon from their private river). Seriously, we went off the highway down this track and found this amazing hotel -- they directed us to the ruins, and we STILL wandered around lost for a while. But finally found this little island in the middle of a rushing river -- not a flat surface on the island, all bumps and lumps and rock and a mossy/grassy turf so thick it was like walking on foam. There are the ruins of 2 mortuary chapels, perhaps dedicated to St. Columba, and a few modern stones here and there too -- burials, or just memorial stones? Not sure.
But there were TWO stone table slabs for knights! Not concrete-copy-of-original-in-some-museum, but he real mccoy. Just there in the grass, worn away, covered with lichen. It was a very moving place, perhaps because it was so well hidden. Loved it.
Then we drove further west to Dunvegan -- this is the MacLeod Castle, clan centre, gift shop, gardens, etc. Again, killer gardens, also a nifty dungeon, right next to the sitting room that the present Chief MacLeod uses. Hmmm.
We drove home and had dinner at the hotel last night and made a quiet time of it.
Today we have been to Broadford to find the catholic church for mass tonight at 6 -- it looks about as big as a phone booth but was much harder to find -- hidden away behind trees and shrubs and ruins.
Then Portree to the classic waterfront of pastel shops. We stopped here at the Aros Tourist center to check email and let you know we're still alive. Now we're off the Old Man of Stoff (a rock). Tomorrow, ferry to the mainland at Mallaig and then the West Highland Railway to Glasgow.
Morning down to Armadale CAstle and the whole MacDonald clan story and gift shop -- amazing gardens too! Then north -- Brian driving and the gorgeous scenery going by -- rocky foothills, bays and inlets and lochs, waterfalls, sheep, highland cattle. Every turn a breathtaking vista.
We went on the search for 2 medieval ruined chapels -- very hard to find, but finally discovered them hidden away on an island in the Snivort river (stay at the Skeabost Country House hotel, fish trout and salmon from their private river). Seriously, we went off the highway down this track and found this amazing hotel -- they directed us to the ruins, and we STILL wandered around lost for a while. But finally found this little island in the middle of a rushing river -- not a flat surface on the island, all bumps and lumps and rock and a mossy/grassy turf so thick it was like walking on foam. There are the ruins of 2 mortuary chapels, perhaps dedicated to St. Columba, and a few modern stones here and there too -- burials, or just memorial stones? Not sure.
But there were TWO stone table slabs for knights! Not concrete-copy-of-original-in-some-museum, but he real mccoy. Just there in the grass, worn away, covered with lichen. It was a very moving place, perhaps because it was so well hidden. Loved it.
Then we drove further west to Dunvegan -- this is the MacLeod Castle, clan centre, gift shop, gardens, etc. Again, killer gardens, also a nifty dungeon, right next to the sitting room that the present Chief MacLeod uses. Hmmm.
We drove home and had dinner at the hotel last night and made a quiet time of it.
Today we have been to Broadford to find the catholic church for mass tonight at 6 -- it looks about as big as a phone booth but was much harder to find -- hidden away behind trees and shrubs and ruins.
Then Portree to the classic waterfront of pastel shops. We stopped here at the Aros Tourist center to check email and let you know we're still alive. Now we're off the Old Man of Stoff (a rock). Tomorrow, ferry to the mainland at Mallaig and then the West Highland Railway to Glasgow.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Inverness 23 Sept
We got a close look at Scottish history today by visiting the 2 most important historical sites: the Culloden moor and Ft. George. Both are just outside of Inverness. We hired a cab-tourist guide to drive us around to these places – Alistair. He was great.
Culloden moor is where the Jacobite Scottish Army under Bonnie Prince Charlie was massively defeated by the British Army under the Duke of Cumberland. The Scots had invaded England, hoping to raise rebellion with the Jacobites there and attract French support. Although the Scots won battles, the English were not welcoming and the French did not come through. The Scots retreated to consolidate and attract more troops in Scotland, pursued by the Brits. Battle was joined at Culloden. Essentially, the outnumbered Scots charged the redcoats who had superior fire discipline and had learned how to use the bayonet while being beaten by the Scots in earlier battles. Charlie fled to Skye (where we flee tomorrow) and that was the end of Scottish independence.
The Brits decided that since they had this army all assembled and in Scotland, this was the time to put those pesky Scots under control. They built the massive Ft. George near Inverness as their base of operations and began the Clearances. They swept through Scotland banning all things Gaelic (the language, kilts, tartans, etc.) , killing any real or potential Jacobites in the process. Many Scots began fleeing to North America. Later, it became clear that it was more economical to raise sheep in the highlands than to have Scots farm there so many chieftans were bought out, speeding up the pace of the Clearances of Scots to North America.
Brian believes that his ancestors were with the Scots at Culloden and were subsequently pushed out of Scotland in the Clearances. Meg’s ancestors were there with the Scots, too and we found their burial marker. Thus, it was good for us to stand on Culloden moor and see where it all began. And to see Ft. George, which was pretty impressive. It is still the HQ of the consolidated Scottish Highlander regiments and has the Highlanders’ Regimental museum.
Alistair then took us to the Clava Cairns, near Culloden. They are three massive stone cairns, each surrounded by 12 standing stones. They are thought to have been ancient burial chambers but nobody knows for sure. The standing stones and cairns are aligned such that the 2 with entrances would have the sun shine in through the entrance on the shortest day of the year. The distance between each cairn is the same.
After about 4 and a half hours of touring we returned to our B&B to find out that there really isn’t that much of interest to see in Inverness itself. It is a regional shopping town of 100,000 people and most of the big sites are outside Inverness but in the vicinity. Time hung on our hands and we ended up walking around until dinner and then walked back to the B&B before reading and turning in. We chopped a day off the end of our intended stay in Inverness to give us more time in Skye, where the accommodations will be better and there will be more to do.
Tomorrow we are off to Skye on the 1:32 train and mighty glad to get going.
Culloden moor is where the Jacobite Scottish Army under Bonnie Prince Charlie was massively defeated by the British Army under the Duke of Cumberland. The Scots had invaded England, hoping to raise rebellion with the Jacobites there and attract French support. Although the Scots won battles, the English were not welcoming and the French did not come through. The Scots retreated to consolidate and attract more troops in Scotland, pursued by the Brits. Battle was joined at Culloden. Essentially, the outnumbered Scots charged the redcoats who had superior fire discipline and had learned how to use the bayonet while being beaten by the Scots in earlier battles. Charlie fled to Skye (where we flee tomorrow) and that was the end of Scottish independence.
The Brits decided that since they had this army all assembled and in Scotland, this was the time to put those pesky Scots under control. They built the massive Ft. George near Inverness as their base of operations and began the Clearances. They swept through Scotland banning all things Gaelic (the language, kilts, tartans, etc.) , killing any real or potential Jacobites in the process. Many Scots began fleeing to North America. Later, it became clear that it was more economical to raise sheep in the highlands than to have Scots farm there so many chieftans were bought out, speeding up the pace of the Clearances of Scots to North America.
Brian believes that his ancestors were with the Scots at Culloden and were subsequently pushed out of Scotland in the Clearances. Meg’s ancestors were there with the Scots, too and we found their burial marker. Thus, it was good for us to stand on Culloden moor and see where it all began. And to see Ft. George, which was pretty impressive. It is still the HQ of the consolidated Scottish Highlander regiments and has the Highlanders’ Regimental museum.
Alistair then took us to the Clava Cairns, near Culloden. They are three massive stone cairns, each surrounded by 12 standing stones. They are thought to have been ancient burial chambers but nobody knows for sure. The standing stones and cairns are aligned such that the 2 with entrances would have the sun shine in through the entrance on the shortest day of the year. The distance between each cairn is the same.
After about 4 and a half hours of touring we returned to our B&B to find out that there really isn’t that much of interest to see in Inverness itself. It is a regional shopping town of 100,000 people and most of the big sites are outside Inverness but in the vicinity. Time hung on our hands and we ended up walking around until dinner and then walked back to the B&B before reading and turning in. We chopped a day off the end of our intended stay in Inverness to give us more time in Skye, where the accommodations will be better and there will be more to do.
Tomorrow we are off to Skye on the 1:32 train and mighty glad to get going.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Inverness 22 Sept
Tonight we are in Inverness -- gorgeous from the air as we flew in from Kirkwall, less impresssive from the ground. We are sitting in the cushion filled "lounge" of a B & B on a very long road of B & Bs. It is very fine, but it's the kind of place where you have to find room to put the 6 cushions on the bed and the vases of faux flower arrangements on the windowsills that prevent the air from getting in.
It's a good 20 mins to the city centre, but we went down to find the tourist information center closed. We did buy train tickets to Skye for Thursday, though. We have cut a nice off here and added one to the ISle of SKye.
This morning after checking out of the Lynnfield Hotel (verdict -- unfriendly but spotless and if it were not for the crappy mattress adn the intermittent wireless, comfortable), we drove down to St. Margaret's Hope --- AWESOME! We drove over causeways with the sea tossing waves over it. The wind and rain were off and on all day but it was not really cold, just blustery. You can see SHIPWRECKS, masts, just sticking up out of the water!!!
St. Margaret's Hope is on the Island of Ronaldsay, south east of Kirkwall. It's a pretty seaside street or two, adn I finally found you girls a little something at a craft cooperative. Nice ladies knitting and such. -- Margaret, I got a good photo in front of St. Margaret's church in St. Margaret's Hope (why did I think her feast was 23 March? it's not).
Tired now, think I'll turn in and read some more Prisoner of Zenda -- lots of fun.
xoxox
Mum
It's a good 20 mins to the city centre, but we went down to find the tourist information center closed. We did buy train tickets to Skye for Thursday, though. We have cut a nice off here and added one to the ISle of SKye.
This morning after checking out of the Lynnfield Hotel (verdict -- unfriendly but spotless and if it were not for the crappy mattress adn the intermittent wireless, comfortable), we drove down to St. Margaret's Hope --- AWESOME! We drove over causeways with the sea tossing waves over it. The wind and rain were off and on all day but it was not really cold, just blustery. You can see SHIPWRECKS, masts, just sticking up out of the water!!!
St. Margaret's Hope is on the Island of Ronaldsay, south east of Kirkwall. It's a pretty seaside street or two, adn I finally found you girls a little something at a craft cooperative. Nice ladies knitting and such. -- Margaret, I got a good photo in front of St. Margaret's church in St. Margaret's Hope (why did I think her feast was 23 March? it's not).
Tired now, think I'll turn in and read some more Prisoner of Zenda -- lots of fun.
xoxox
Mum
Monday, September 21, 2009
Orkney 21 Sept
Blog Post for 21Sep09
Got up slowly and had breakfast at the hotel. Meg had the porridge today, without whiskey, but with honey and cream.
We then went back to downtown Kirkwall and finalized out travel arrangements to Inverness for tomorrow. Went to the public library and booked our flight on the Net. We then did a much more thorough tour of the shops than on our first day. Very nice local crafts, jewellery, etc, biut EXPENSIVE. No $350 sweaters appealled to us sufficiently. Lots of beautiful locally knit stuff with local wool. I'd see a gorgeous scarf for one of the girls and think, well, it's a bit much at 30 dollars, and then remember that it was 30 POUNDS!!. Sorry, girls, no scarves.
After a brief rest stop back in he hotel, we drove off to Stromness, the "Mainland's" second biggest population centre. A busy port on the Atlantic but small - 1 street. The Royal Navy has closed the base at Scapa Flow. After a mediocre lunch at the impressive looking Stromness Hotel, we toured the shopping district (all 2 blocks of it). Had to observe the horse drawn hearse with Victorian-dressed attendance transport a real coffin in a real funeral like they did under Queen Victoria.
Ended up at the Stromness Museum. It had an interesting collection of German naval artifacts relating to the scuttling the German High Seas Fleet in Scapa Flow in 1918 and the sinking of the Royal Oak by submarine in October 1939, also in Scapa Flow. Of greater interest was the substantial collection relating to the Hudson's Bay Company and the huge role of Orkneymen therein, especially John Rae. Throughout the town people raised the HBC connection when learning we were from Canada and that Edmonton started out as an HBC trading post.
Drove back to Kirkwall in time for a tour of the Highland Park distillery, one block down from our hotel. Quite interesting and we all got a wee dram to sample at the end, but pricey. Not my favourite scotch but was good to learn how it all happens.
Two funniest signs on the Okney highways: Otters crossing next 200 yds. and the Church at Twatt. Your mother wanted a picture of the latter but I wouldn’t go for it – she just had to make do with thinking “”that’s what she said” as we drove by.
We had dinner at a place called the Shore in town. Met and had a long talk with a couple from Kingston Ontario. The food was good but the place was noisy because “the Norwegian Navy” was in town – a 3 masted sailing ship with teenagers crewing and they were all partying in the place.
Tomorrow’s our last day here. We have until our flight leaves at about 4:30 pm for Inverness tomorrow.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Sunday in the Orkneys
This morning we drove out to see the Italian Chapel -- a quonset hut decorated by Italian POWs interned here during World War II. It is very pretty -- painted inside to resemble stone and brick work.
Then we went to mass at Our Lady and St. Joseph's in Kirkwall. This was the only weekend mass held in the entire group of Orkney Islands. There were about 30 of us at mass, and the priest was 90 years old and used a walker (zimmer frame!) to come up the aisle. Mentally very spry and an excellent preacher, though. But he is tired, so we are praying especially hard for vocations to the priesthood in the diocese of Aberdeen (of which the Orkneys is part). STill too much kneeling for my taste, but we survived. We had coffee afterwards and chatted with the parishioners and Fr. Walls.
We decided to see some Scottish History sites in the afternoon, starting at the top of Mainland (the largest Orkney island) and working our way down. Birsay has the remains of an 11th century village, only reachable at low tide by causeway (and hopping over big rocks). Looked like about an hour on the map - took us 15 minutes -- seriously, it is very disconcerting doing any navigation around here!
Anyway, we passed a church that bore a sign saying "est. 1068" and stopped at a tea house for "tatties" -- a warm baked potato smothered in butter with cold ham and cheese on top and an heirloom tomato salad. YUM! Fortified, we discovered that the tide was low and so we hiked over the causeway and up to the site of the village -- it was a church, a monastery and a few houses, including a forge and a sauna. I can't really describe how moved Brian and I were -- it was really breathtaking. The sea, the blue sky, the cold high winds (not a bad air temp, the wind is dangerous), the bright green grass and the stone outlines of these buildings. Tide pools and sea shells. Excellent stuff.
Then we drove south to Skara Brae, the 3500 BC settlement. This too was impressive -- the houses remain with their stone furniture-- dressers, beds, pens for fish or bait. Major archaeological jewel. It is on Skaill bay and was first discovered by the local laird, a fellow who lived in Skaill house. He was a local big wig ("Elizabeth R" signed in his guest book) and his house is part of the Skara Brae site and the tour is billed as the most beautiful house in Scotland. People hold their weddings there. It's a huge house. We got to see 6 rooms in one wing. Including a pink bathroom -- it was mostly kind of pokey and sad -- not as grand as my own house, in some rooms. Very odd. I will have to read the guide book (I always buy the guide book) and see if I missed some important something or others.
After this we drove south and east until the Brodgar stone circle. That was fun. A couple of miles down the road was the Stenness Stone Circle and henge (it's a henge if there is a ditch and wall surrounding the circle, I think). It is much smaller and was surrounded by sheep (and sheep shit, of course). For all these sites, you see the water - the North Sea, the Atlantic, the many lochs, and bright green grass. The heather is mostly dark and finished for the season, but the odd sprig of bright purple remained -- letting us identify it!
Then home and dinner and rest.
This really is a cool place. It's clean, people are helpful adn polite and friendly, tourism is bringing even more prosperity to an already prosperous place. There are no old cars anywhere.
More photos for Brian to post -- maybe tomorrow.
Then we went to mass at Our Lady and St. Joseph's in Kirkwall. This was the only weekend mass held in the entire group of Orkney Islands. There were about 30 of us at mass, and the priest was 90 years old and used a walker (zimmer frame!) to come up the aisle. Mentally very spry and an excellent preacher, though. But he is tired, so we are praying especially hard for vocations to the priesthood in the diocese of Aberdeen (of which the Orkneys is part). STill too much kneeling for my taste, but we survived. We had coffee afterwards and chatted with the parishioners and Fr. Walls.
We decided to see some Scottish History sites in the afternoon, starting at the top of Mainland (the largest Orkney island) and working our way down. Birsay has the remains of an 11th century village, only reachable at low tide by causeway (and hopping over big rocks). Looked like about an hour on the map - took us 15 minutes -- seriously, it is very disconcerting doing any navigation around here!
Anyway, we passed a church that bore a sign saying "est. 1068" and stopped at a tea house for "tatties" -- a warm baked potato smothered in butter with cold ham and cheese on top and an heirloom tomato salad. YUM! Fortified, we discovered that the tide was low and so we hiked over the causeway and up to the site of the village -- it was a church, a monastery and a few houses, including a forge and a sauna. I can't really describe how moved Brian and I were -- it was really breathtaking. The sea, the blue sky, the cold high winds (not a bad air temp, the wind is dangerous), the bright green grass and the stone outlines of these buildings. Tide pools and sea shells. Excellent stuff.
Then we drove south to Skara Brae, the 3500 BC settlement. This too was impressive -- the houses remain with their stone furniture-- dressers, beds, pens for fish or bait. Major archaeological jewel. It is on Skaill bay and was first discovered by the local laird, a fellow who lived in Skaill house. He was a local big wig ("Elizabeth R" signed in his guest book) and his house is part of the Skara Brae site and the tour is billed as the most beautiful house in Scotland. People hold their weddings there. It's a huge house. We got to see 6 rooms in one wing. Including a pink bathroom -- it was mostly kind of pokey and sad -- not as grand as my own house, in some rooms. Very odd. I will have to read the guide book (I always buy the guide book) and see if I missed some important something or others.
After this we drove south and east until the Brodgar stone circle. That was fun. A couple of miles down the road was the Stenness Stone Circle and henge (it's a henge if there is a ditch and wall surrounding the circle, I think). It is much smaller and was surrounded by sheep (and sheep shit, of course). For all these sites, you see the water - the North Sea, the Atlantic, the many lochs, and bright green grass. The heather is mostly dark and finished for the season, but the odd sprig of bright purple remained -- letting us identify it!
Then home and dinner and rest.
This really is a cool place. It's clean, people are helpful adn polite and friendly, tourism is bringing even more prosperity to an already prosperous place. There are no old cars anywhere.
More photos for Brian to post -- maybe tomorrow.
Friday, September 18, 2009
Edinburgh, day 2
Another good day.
We began with mass at St. Patrick's down the street, round the block, up a tiny close. Interesting. They kneel from the Preface to the end of mass with the exception of the sign of peace and communion itself. They kneel when being dismissed!!!!! And no homily! Very odd - and hard on the old knees. Lots of "Protestant slouch" going on. But funny, because when Brian stood up for the Euch. Prayer, the Scottish biddies behind us whispered that this wasn't England or Ireland, they do things differently here!
Then a nice affordable brekkie at the Youth Hostel Cafe we found yesterday.
We spent the morning hiking around the New Town.
We explored the Georgian House at 7 Charlotte Square -- Mum you would have loved this! They even had a chamber pot in the sideboard and a silver dish for making toasted cheese (Light along the toasted cheese, there, Killick!).
The shops in this area were excellent - Moss Bros., Church's, Brooks Brothers, Topshop, Cruise, Harvey Nichols, Jenners, places for bespoke suits and hand made shoes. Luscious window shopping.
My feet were dying by this time, so we had a nice lunch at a cafe called Spoon -- trendy, healthy, yummy,. I had the smoked salmon sandwich with creme fraiche and chives.
AFter lunch we took a city bus (Lothian 15) out to Roslin, which is in the country, about 40 minutes from the center of town. We did a quick tour of Rosslyn Chapel and bussed home.
Dinner was at Deacon Brodie's -- a place famous for real traditional pub food. Brian had the steak pie, I had the bangers and mash (cumberland sausage -- divine!). Banoffee pie for dessert -- hey, that's a tradition! -- and Tennant's ale to quench our thirst.
We're having a horrible time trying to upload photos -- maybe we'll have a better connection at Kirkwall. We fly out tomorrow morning.
Also, coffee in Edinburgh is delicious! Not sure why -- but white coffee is really good! Better than a latte, better than coffee with milk. Not quite certain how they make it, but it is fabulous.
More later,
Meg
We began with mass at St. Patrick's down the street, round the block, up a tiny close. Interesting. They kneel from the Preface to the end of mass with the exception of the sign of peace and communion itself. They kneel when being dismissed!!!!! And no homily! Very odd - and hard on the old knees. Lots of "Protestant slouch" going on. But funny, because when Brian stood up for the Euch. Prayer, the Scottish biddies behind us whispered that this wasn't England or Ireland, they do things differently here!
Then a nice affordable brekkie at the Youth Hostel Cafe we found yesterday.
We spent the morning hiking around the New Town.
We explored the Georgian House at 7 Charlotte Square -- Mum you would have loved this! They even had a chamber pot in the sideboard and a silver dish for making toasted cheese (Light along the toasted cheese, there, Killick!).
The shops in this area were excellent - Moss Bros., Church's, Brooks Brothers, Topshop, Cruise, Harvey Nichols, Jenners, places for bespoke suits and hand made shoes. Luscious window shopping.
My feet were dying by this time, so we had a nice lunch at a cafe called Spoon -- trendy, healthy, yummy,. I had the smoked salmon sandwich with creme fraiche and chives.
AFter lunch we took a city bus (Lothian 15) out to Roslin, which is in the country, about 40 minutes from the center of town. We did a quick tour of Rosslyn Chapel and bussed home.
Dinner was at Deacon Brodie's -- a place famous for real traditional pub food. Brian had the steak pie, I had the bangers and mash (cumberland sausage -- divine!). Banoffee pie for dessert -- hey, that's a tradition! -- and Tennant's ale to quench our thirst.
We're having a horrible time trying to upload photos -- maybe we'll have a better connection at Kirkwall. We fly out tomorrow morning.
Also, coffee in Edinburgh is delicious! Not sure why -- but white coffee is really good! Better than a latte, better than coffee with milk. Not quite certain how they make it, but it is fabulous.
More later,
Meg
Friday 18 Sept
Took the 9:40 Flybe prop plane (small Saab puddle jumper) from Edinburgh to Kirkwall on the "Mainland" of the Orkney Islands. We were ready to leave the busy urban setting of Edinburgh and trade it in for the small town and rural setting of the Orkneys.
Rented the Renault Laguna automatic - neat car. No keys. It comes with a card you insert in a slot on the dash and then push a `start` button. Turn it off by pushing the start button again and removing the card. Way cool.
Driving on the L side was a challenge at first and, when we got to our hotel, a horror - a near accident, actually. Pulling out of the hotel drive to turn right (into the far lane for left sided driving) was scary due to a wall to our right that blocked the view of oncoming traffic from the left in the left lane (at 40 mph). To go to town and live we would simply do a left turn (angling the car so the side mirror could see oncoming trafffic from the right) and then go around the block. Took us a half hour to figure out which road would actually get us around the block as opposed to being a dead end. Eventually, we hit on a system where we would just pull into a parking lot half a block down the road and turn around. Highway driving at 60 mph on very narrow lanes and no shoulders - scary for Meggy in the passenger seat as we would nearly brush hedges parked car mirrors, etc. But, fortunately for all concerned I caught on.
We checked into the great suite at the Lindfield Hotel and arranged for high class dinner (world famous) for the evening and then we drove into town,.
We did a quick walking tour of the shopping district with lots of other tourists (its a bank holiday weekend) and had a great lunch at a combination restaurant bar and music school called the Reel.
Toured the absolutely magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral, started in the 10 hundreds and finished about 1450. Huge. Red stone. Medieval. Awesome. Words can barely describe it. Had a great visit with Robert and Margaret (also celebrating their 25th) at the St. Magnus Visitor`s Centre. Then toured the Earl`s Palace and the Bishop`s palace (both ruins now) - very interesting.
Had a good dinner at the hotel that evening.
Rented the Renault Laguna automatic - neat car. No keys. It comes with a card you insert in a slot on the dash and then push a `start` button. Turn it off by pushing the start button again and removing the card. Way cool.
Driving on the L side was a challenge at first and, when we got to our hotel, a horror - a near accident, actually. Pulling out of the hotel drive to turn right (into the far lane for left sided driving) was scary due to a wall to our right that blocked the view of oncoming traffic from the left in the left lane (at 40 mph). To go to town and live we would simply do a left turn (angling the car so the side mirror could see oncoming trafffic from the right) and then go around the block. Took us a half hour to figure out which road would actually get us around the block as opposed to being a dead end. Eventually, we hit on a system where we would just pull into a parking lot half a block down the road and turn around. Highway driving at 60 mph on very narrow lanes and no shoulders - scary for Meggy in the passenger seat as we would nearly brush hedges parked car mirrors, etc. But, fortunately for all concerned I caught on.
We checked into the great suite at the Lindfield Hotel and arranged for high class dinner (world famous) for the evening and then we drove into town,.
We did a quick walking tour of the shopping district with lots of other tourists (its a bank holiday weekend) and had a great lunch at a combination restaurant bar and music school called the Reel.
Toured the absolutely magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral, started in the 10 hundreds and finished about 1450. Huge. Red stone. Medieval. Awesome. Words can barely describe it. Had a great visit with Robert and Margaret (also celebrating their 25th) at the St. Magnus Visitor`s Centre. Then toured the Earl`s Palace and the Bishop`s palace (both ruins now) - very interesting.
Had a good dinner at the hotel that evening.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
First Full Day in Edinburgh
What a GREAT day!! We got over the jet laq.
The Great Porridge Hunt was a failure. The Hotel wanted 16 pounds each for a breakfast - yikes!! We tried several places but none had oatmeal or porridge. Eventually we ate a cereal (meg: and bacon!!) breakfast at the TravelLodge but on our travels we have now found one, count them, one place with porridge on the breakfast menu for tommorrow.
Here is our hotel, the Radisson on the Royal Mile:
(note - we can't seem to upload anything -- here or on Facebook. Maybe the wireless signal not strong enough? will try again later)
We then walked up the ridge (west from our hotel) towards the Edinburgh Castle. On the way we walked past the St. Giles Cathedral and went in. It was a fantastic find! Wonderful artwork. Carved wooden ceilings with various crests on them. The walls were lined with memorials to fallen Scottish soldiers from every war from the Indian Mutiny in the 1840's to WWII. Tombs with sarcophogi of the good guy (Duke of Argyll) and the bad guy (Marquis of Montrose) from the movie Rob Roy. The Thistle Chapel has to be seen to be believed - ornate wood work on all but the floor with various family and clan crests added from 1911 to the present. Truely awesome.
The Castle was grand - large and with lots to see. This included the National War Museum and the Scottish War Memorial - an entire building with stain glass windows and the walls covered with memorials to various Scottish units, army, navy, air corps, Royal Marines and Royal Naval Air Service for WWI. It also had a palace with the Scottish Crown Jewels (saved from destruction by Cromwell) and the Stone of Destiny. Yes, the real Stone. Margaret's Chapel, a beautiful little building with nice stained glass, is the oldest remaining building in Edinburgh. Also, right next to it the monster medieval cannon Mons Meg. A real "meggy" place. Hallowed ground. Had a wonderful lunch (Haggis with turnip and potatoes, called Neeps, Tatties and Haggis as an appetizer.
After lunch we took a cab to the port of Leith on the Firth of Forth to Kinlock Anderson, master kiltmakers. Great stuff acquired for Clan Donald (Meg's family) and Clan Russell (my family) to be custom made and delivered to Canada in a few weeks.
We then, on a whim, did a tour of HMY Britannica, the now-retired Royal Yacht. It was fascinating. Naval stuff and neat info about the Royals, including china, silver, crystal, entertainment protocols, etc. which Meg was more familiar with.
Went to see No. 7 Jane Street where a Donald ancestor was married in Leith in the 1800's. It's a car dealership now. And a great Scottish dinner (steak and ale pie) to round it all off.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Tourist town
Edinburgh is gorgeous, but the Royal Mile is one big tartan tourist shop. Amazing old/restored buildings and architecture. Lots of restaurants/cafes that serve haggis, neeps & taters. Wall to wall cheap plaid.
The bonus? They also have cheap sporrans, John! I found you one for 55 L, went off to think about it and found the same one (white, rabbit fur, 3 dangling rabbit feet) at a different store, but the clerk there smelled sale and so he gave it to me for 45 and threw in the chain for free. He looked Chinese but had a Scottish accent. I love this place!
And you owe me $83. Canadian.
OH! And we went to The Bank pub for supper -- the burgers were RARE! Bright red -- unless they added something to the meat that I couldn't taste that made it red? Oh well, if we have e coli tomorrow, you'll know why.
Am so tired can hardly breathe, but trying to hold out until 9 pm before sleeping.
Will take camera along next time we go out.
xoxox
Meg
The bonus? They also have cheap sporrans, John! I found you one for 55 L, went off to think about it and found the same one (white, rabbit fur, 3 dangling rabbit feet) at a different store, but the clerk there smelled sale and so he gave it to me for 45 and threw in the chain for free. He looked Chinese but had a Scottish accent. I love this place!
And you owe me $83. Canadian.
OH! And we went to The Bank pub for supper -- the burgers were RARE! Bright red -- unless they added something to the meat that I couldn't taste that made it red? Oh well, if we have e coli tomorrow, you'll know why.
Am so tired can hardly breathe, but trying to hold out until 9 pm before sleeping.
Will take camera along next time we go out.
xoxox
Meg
Pods and lounges
The Maple Leaf lounge at the Edmonton Airport is certainly not worth the money. Not enough air conditioning, not enough seats, pokey little bathroom, and loudmouths talking to the air on their Bluetooths (Blueteeth?).
We ended up going down to the gate where it was cooler and less crowded.
The Pods, now. They were interesting. Still not easy to sleep, but better than a regular seat, I guess. Except at take off, when you are not facing forward, so you're pushed back on a funny angle. I dozed for an hour or so, but Brian managed a good 3 hours of sleep. Go figure!
The food was horrendous. The wine was really good. The service was excellent.
Julie and Julia was NOT one of the movies offered, so I watched Robert Downey Jr. in The Soloist and then Sandra Bullock in The Proposal.
We are now in the BMI Lounge at HEathrow waiting for our flight to Edinburgh. It is lovely and big and cool... a nice glass of fizzy water and I might even grab an apple. Yeah right.
I am amazed at all the ritzy shops here -- if you were a millionaire you could live in this airport. But since we walked about 5 miles to get to this lounge, I think we'll just sit and try to cool down a bit.
We ended up going down to the gate where it was cooler and less crowded.
The Pods, now. They were interesting. Still not easy to sleep, but better than a regular seat, I guess. Except at take off, when you are not facing forward, so you're pushed back on a funny angle. I dozed for an hour or so, but Brian managed a good 3 hours of sleep. Go figure!
The food was horrendous. The wine was really good. The service was excellent.
Julie and Julia was NOT one of the movies offered, so I watched Robert Downey Jr. in The Soloist and then Sandra Bullock in The Proposal.
We are now in the BMI Lounge at HEathrow waiting for our flight to Edinburgh. It is lovely and big and cool... a nice glass of fizzy water and I might even grab an apple. Yeah right.
I am amazed at all the ritzy shops here -- if you were a millionaire you could live in this airport. But since we walked about 5 miles to get to this lounge, I think we'll just sit and try to cool down a bit.
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Decisions
Big purse?
Small purse?
Looks?
Convenience?
Backpack?
Carry-on?
Both?
Neither?
I had all this planned, but of course with only 2 days left, and everything all ready, I really have nothing left to do but second guess myself.
ARGH!
Small purse?
Looks?
Convenience?
Backpack?
Carry-on?
Both?
Neither?
I had all this planned, but of course with only 2 days left, and everything all ready, I really have nothing left to do but second guess myself.
ARGH!
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Less than a week to go...
... and we're fine-tuning the travel arrangements, home arrangements, packing.
My banner is the MacDonald of the Isles Ancient Hunting Tartan. Nice, eh? I'm thinking maybe an evening skirt. A sash for each of the girls.
I keep running through packing lists, trying to think of everything the kids will need while we're gone, making lists of things we have to make sure to see while we're there. Do I have the confirmations for each hotel, car rental, B & B? Will we be able to buy the train, ferry, bus tickets without reservations?
I know it's all fine....
I just want to GET AT IT!
I hate waiting.
My banner is the MacDonald of the Isles Ancient Hunting Tartan. Nice, eh? I'm thinking maybe an evening skirt. A sash for each of the girls.
I keep running through packing lists, trying to think of everything the kids will need while we're gone, making lists of things we have to make sure to see while we're there. Do I have the confirmations for each hotel, car rental, B & B? Will we be able to buy the train, ferry, bus tickets without reservations?
I know it's all fine....
I just want to GET AT IT!
I hate waiting.
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